La Bufadora - One of Nature's Greatest Feats by Will Ebersman

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05/07/2013

La Bufadora - One of Nature's Greatest Feats by Will Ebersman

Besides the hospitality of Baja Norte, as Northern Baja is called in Spanish, there are a number of attractions that can be found. Ninety percent of the wineries of Mexico can be found within a easy drive of Ensenada where the Pacific Ocean acts to moderate conditions that wine grape vines thrive in.

The strong German influence, lasting from the mid- to late 19th century, left a legacy of beer-making that is undergoing a resurgence today with a number of local micro-breweries making a variety of light and dark beers, ales and lagers.

Many local restaurants in Ensenada do some superb fusion-style meals, designed to compliment the flights of beers or wines, especially selcted ot match the locally-grown foods.

The French followed the Germans into Mexico. Driven by Napoleon Bonaparte, there was a military occupation of Mexico known as the Segunda Intervencion de Mexico (Second French Intervention in Mexico). Joined by Britain and Spain, Bonaparte's France built a coalition formalized by the Treaty of London. When Presidente Benito Juarez stopped making interest payments on loans to the three European nations on July 17, 1861, Napoleon seized the opportunity to lay claim's to Mexico's silver to finance his empire and to use the country as a stepping stone into Latin America. The United States was busy fighting the Civil War, also known as the Battle Between the States. President Lincoln was pre-occupied iwth the battle on American soil

When Spain and Britain discovered what Napoleon's intentions were, they withdrew leaving France to engage Mexico in the Franco-American War. Cinco de Mayo (5th of May) is celebrated mainly in the United States and Puebla, Mexico. The fiesta commemorates the unexpected victory of the Mexican Army over the French forces who were subdued at the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862. This is not Mexico's independence day, the single most important national patriotic holiday in Mexico. That day is September 16.

All the above goes to explain why pesos, and not francs or marks , are the national currency of Mexico and we go to La Bufadora instead of 'Le Soufflure' or 'Der Absubgloch'. La Buf, as it's affectionately called by the locals and expatriates alike, is an easy drive from Rosarito Beach, just south of the U.S.-Mexican border or even an easier one from Ensenada.

A simple 30-minute drive from Ensenada down Mex 1 takes you to the Punta Banda (Flag Point) turn-off. There is a traffic light at the road, making the return to points north that much easier. The road runs about 12 miles or 20 kilometers.

This road is fairly-well maintained although conditions can vary with the weather. It wends it's way past farm- and horse-lands. Something to be aware of while travelling include the secondary traffic found along the road. This includes horses, motorcyclists, bike riders, pedestrians and a wide variety of ATVs, driven by people of all ages.

You will pass through some areas loaded with roadside vendors. Here you can buy a variety of local products ranging from honey to fruits and vegetables, firewood for those camping on the beach, tamales of all varieties, and bottled foodstuffs including olives of all type and style. The food found at the stands is uniformly good and a tamale, or freshly roasted corn is a truly memorable dining experience.

Another thing to be aware of is what I think of as Mexican speedbumps. There are unmarked conduits or pipes half-buried in the road with no ramps. Hit one of these at the wrong speed and it's quite jarring.

The road deserves your respect. While there are a number of things to see ranging from tuna pens, animal life and some incredible views, the curves in the road will have you following the speed limits. Mexican roads usually have a steep drop-off and no road barricades.

Upon arriving at La Bufadora, the first thing to do is to find parking. I suspect there is some free parking somewhere, but I have yet to find it. There is a lot of foot traffic here right next to the road. Watch for pedestrians and baby carriages. Neither will yield to a car. The bite for parking runs $2 American which is a small price to pay for the experience.

Walk down the road to the ocean. There is much shopping to be had here, ranging from the inexpensive to some quality items. Items run from bracelets with your name woven into them while you wait, liquor, various medications including Viagra, cigars, dried fruit, baked goods, clothing of all brands, and onyx and leather items of all description. It's downhill to La Buf, so I suggest you see the sights first and do your shopping and eating on the way back.

The view is accessible to wheel chairs. Down is easy; getting back requires some effort. For the mobility-impaired, I suggest having a friend who can assist with some pushing, if necessary.

La Bufadora is a naturally-occuring marine blowhole (geyser). There are only 14 or 15 of these in the world and this one is probably the most physically accessible. Blowholes come in several varieties. The marine ones are formed as sea caves grow landwards and upwards into vertical shafts and expose themselve towards the surface. This results in blasts of water and air from the top of the blowhole if conditions are right. At La Bufadora, conditions seem to be right all year round. This phenomona occurs approximately once a minute. Water shoot upwards of 100 feet above the sea level, accompanied by a thunderous roar of escaping air.

Similarly, land-based blowholes exist where conditions are right. This is due to the pressure differences between a closed underground system and the surface. The closest example of this to Southern California is in Wupatki National Monument, near the town of Flagstaff, Arizona. The estimated volume of the closed underground passages is at least 7 billion cubic feet. Wind speeds can aproach 30 miles per hour.

On the way uphill from LA Buf, there are a number of restaurants offering everyting from tacos ala carte to full dinners. Depending on the day's catch, fish of all varieties and shrimp are available. At some of the taco shops, there are also meats ranging from carne asada (beef) to carnitas (deep-fried pork). Tortillas are hand-pressed or patted out, cooked on a hot grille, and served up with a variety of salsas and other condiments. This is Mexican street food at it's best and compliments the views that can be seen from the seaward-located restaurants.

If you visit La Bufadora, allow 45 minutes from/to Ensenada each way, and a half-hour at the blowhole itself. There are also a number of foodstands along Mex 1. Allow time for shopping and eating, if you so desire.

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05/07/2013